Ending Destructive Chewing

Dogs love to chew.  Puppies chew to investigate their environment and to relieve the discomfort of teething.  Adult dogs chew because it feels good, it helps pass the time when there’s nothing else to do, and sometimes because a tooth hurts or some nutrient is missing from the diet.  Left to their own devices, dogs will often chew on the first object they come across, or an object that smells like the owner.  Sometimes a food smell attracts them.  Whatever the reason, chewing problems are easier to prevent than correct, and are best corrected using positive methods.

Punishment
Punishing a dog for inappropriate chewing is seldom successful in correcting the problem.  To be effective as a training tool, punishment must be 100% consistent.  If a dog is punished for chewing in the owner’s presence, he simply learns to chew when the owner is absent.  Punishment more than 3 seconds after the crime is not effective; the dog has already forgotten the crime.  If you come home to a scene of destruction, very calmly tell your dog to go get a chew toy and praise him for bringing one to you.  If you are really angry and must let off steam, go in another room, away from the dog, and beat up a pillow.  Beating a dog simply teaches him to fear the person beating him, and possibly people in general.

Prevention
The best way to protect your furnishings and possessions is to start when your puppy is very young, confining it when you cannot supervise play, providing sufficient exercise and proper nutrition, offering appropriate chew toys, and praising the pup lavishly for using them. Crating your pup can be a life-saver, preventing it from chewing electrical cords or ingesting poisons when left unsupervised.  Make sure the crate is large enough to allow the pup to stretch out.  Provide a comfy bed, and a couple of really good chew toys.

When you are with the pup but unable to supervise closely, confine it with a leash attached to your belt. Make sure the pup won’t chew the leash, and provide one or two good chew toys.  Try to catch the pup in the act of chewing the right thing and praise lavishly.

Exercise Body and Mind
Many chewing problems are solved simply by ensuring the dog has sufficient exercise.  A 30-minute walk in the morning before the dog is left for the day will help relax and even tire the dog enough to reduce the desire to chew.  Incorporating some training exercises into the walk, such as having the dog sit or down at several points on the walk, and doing a come-fore exercise 3 or 4 times will also help relax the dog.  If a walk is impossible, 15 or 20 minutes of tossing a ball in the backyard or down a flight of carpeted stairs for the dog to retrieve will do the trick.  The dog should also have some exercise in the evening, to help it relax for bedtime.

Training
Take the time to teach your dog to chew on chew toys.  Always reinforce your dog with lots of praise when you “catch him in the act” of chewing on his own toys.  Play games such as toss and fetch with a toy to increase his interest.  If the problem chewing occurs when you leave the house and is focused on belongings that smell like you, try to leave your scent on his own toys.  Carry a new chew toy around in your pocket for a day and handle it, or just rub your hands over one of his toys.  Once he has the hang of chewing on his toys, teach him to “Go get a chew toy,”  praising him when he brings one to you.

Keep chew toys in every room of the house until the dog gets good at finding them on command or on his own.  Eventually, you can keep them in a centrally located toy basket, making sure that the dog has unlimited access to them.  Periodically you will have to fish them out from under chairs and sofas and return them to the basket.

Once this training is under way, you can lead the dog to a forbidden object, such as drapes or shoes or electrical cords.  Move the object around, and just as he is about to sniff or lick or chew the object, say “OFF!” in a firm voice, and then, “Go get your chew toy.”  Repeat this several times, and then if you catch him investigating a forbidden object on his own, repeat the “OFF” and “Go get your chew toy.” command.  This is what trainers call an instructive reprimand, letting him know by tone of voice and words what is wrong and how he can correct the problem.

Appropriate Chew Toys
Provide your dog with a variety of chew toys, including a Kong toy, nylon bones, sterilized marrow bones, and a soft “Chew Man” type or twisted rope toy.  Different dogs prefer different textures, and one dog may prefer several different toys depending on its mood.  Avoid home-made toys like worn-out tennis shoes or knotted socks.  It takes extra time to teach the dog the difference between the old shoes and your brand-new $100 running shoes, and certain fibers, like the nylon in socks or hose can be very dangerous to a dog when ingested.  It is cheaper to spend money on good dog toys than to replace your good clothes.  Hollow toys, such as the Kong or marrow bones can be stuffed with peanut butter or cheese to increase desirability.  After some trial and error, you will discover what your dog likes best.  It’s a good idea to stock up on favorite toys, so that new ones are always available.

Nutrition and Health
If your older dog suddenly develops a chewing problem, have your vet do a thorough exam to rule out illness, such as an abscessed tooth.  With all dogs, be sure that the diet is adequate to meet that dog’s nutritional needs.  A dog with a fixation on chewing a particular substance (such as wood or paper) may have a pica, a craving for something missing from the diet.  Look for a food with as little filler as possible, and avoid foods with additives and byproducts.

Many dogs develop destructive chewing habits when their feeding schedule changes, specifically when meals are decreased from twice a day to once a day.  All dogs should be fed at least twice a day (growing puppies three times a day) to prevent such chewing problems, as well as other potentially serious health problems.

 Scottee Meade        Burke, VA    'Tee Party Bostons
Canine Behavior Consultant
Member, Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Old Dominion Kennel Club

Source : doglogic

Housetraining Tips

Housetraining is a universal problem with a simple solution.  These tips will help you train your puppy or older dog to eliminate outdoors.

Good Health Is Essential
Make sure your puppy or dog is healthy before undertaking housetraining.  Intestinal parasites are the most common cause of inappropriate defecation.

Bladder infections are a frequent cause of inappropriate urination.  Have a stool sample checked by your veterinarian.  If you suspect a bladder problem, have a urine sample checked as well.  Symptoms of bladder infection include frequent urination of small amounts, unproductive straining, or licking of private parts.

Feed your puppy a good quality puppy food.  Avoid over feeding or making sudden changes in his diet; both can cause diarrhea. Another common problem arises when a dog has been given steroids to treat a bee sting or allergic reaction.  Steroids usually increase the dog’s water intake and urine output.

Scheduling
Feed your puppy on a fairly regular schedule, two or three times a day. Allow 30 minutes for each meal, and remove the leftovers after that time.  Maintaining a feeding schedule helps predict output.

Schedule your puppy’s trips outdoors.  The average puppy needs frequent opportunities to eliminate.  Start first thing in the morning with a trip outside as soon as your puppy awakens.  Puppies feel the call of nature about every hour when they are awake and playing.  They need to go out soon after eating, and after drinking water.  By the age of 10 or 12 weeks, the average healthy puppy can sleep through the night.  If your puppy has an accident, examine the schedule and make adjustments to prevent future accidents.

Confinement
One of the most valuable tools in housetraining is the dog crate.  Intended to be used like a baby’s playpen or crib, the crate keeps the puppy safely confined when no one is available to supervise her.  Crating prevents accidents for the normal puppy, because her instinct to keep her nest clean is very strong.  Crating also prevents her from destroying your treasured possessions while she is teething, or injuring herself by chewing on or ingesting something harmful.

Your puppy should be crated at night while you are asleep, and any other time you cannot supervise his activities.  This includes times when you are on the phone or in the shower, or doing anything that prevents you from paying full attention to your puppy.  He should have an opportunity to go outside every time you let him out of his crate.

Training
Every time you take your puppy outside, give her plenty of cues.  As you walk out the door with her, say “Let’s go outside.”  Take her to her spot, and repeat your cue phrase as she is about to eliminate. (Be sure to use a phrase that does not come up in every day conversation.  Avoid cues such as “hurry up” or “be a good dog” in favor of something more specific, such as “do your piddles.”)  When she goes, praise her enthusiastically and reward her with a very small food treat, right there on the spot.  After several
repetitions of this routine, your puppy will learn to eliminate on cue (very useful in bad weather or strange places) and learn that eliminating outside is more fruitful than eliminating inside.  After a week of this, continue to praise the puppy every time she goes outside, but reward with food on a more random basis.  In a couple of weeks, you won’t need the food reward at all.

Accidents
If you find an accident, clean it up, and consider adjusting your puppy’s schedule to prevent another accident.  Punishing your puppy only teaches him to be wary of you.  If you catch him in the act and punish or correct him, he will learn to eliminate when you aren’t looking, which will defeat your training program.  If you should see your puppy circling as if he has to go, gently remind him to “go outside” and help him get to his spot where he can earn praise and a reward.

Accidents happen most frequently in the morning or evening when the puppy is out playing with the family.  It is easy to become so involved in an activity that you forget that the puppy hasn’t been outside in an hour.  If this is the case, find a way to remind yourself, such as setting a kitchen timer or alarm clock.

Patience
Unrealistic expectations are a frequent cause of problems in housetraining. On average, the bladder/brain connection is not fully formed until the puppy is about 8 months old.  If a young puppy does go to the door and “ask to go out,” his need is immediate, he must go out right away.  Some dogs never learn to ask to go out, while others learn quickly to go to the door and sit or bark or ring a bell.  Some dogs learn to use a dog door easily and go out whenever they feel the urge.  The best way to ensure success is to stick to a schedule long enough for the puppy’s body to adapt to it and get in the habit of eliminating at particular times.

Neuter or Spay
If you are not planning to enter your dog in conformation competition, neutering or spaying helps ensure successful housetraining.  Neutered males still lift their legs, but are less inclined to mark their territory (including the priceless antique chair legs and the floor-length drapes).  They are also less prone to certain cancers and prostate problems that can lead to accidents in older dogs.  Unspayed females ovulate twice a year, on average.  For several weeks before and during the heat cycle they are more prone to mark territory.  They are also more vulnerable to bladder problems that can lead to accidents.

Paper Training Is Not Housetraining
Teaching your puppy to eliminate indoors on newspaper does not lead to success in housetraining.  Dogs are place oriented, and once taught to go in a particular place on a particular surface will continue to do so.  Careless newspaper readers are liable to reach for a section they left on the floor only to find it has been used by the family dog.

If you  must confine your puppy for more than six or eight hours at a time, or if you live in a high-rise apartment with a small dog, consider using a “litter box” for your dog.  A plastic under-the-bed storage container, lid removed, filled with bark mulch will serve this purpose very well.  The mulch absorbs urine odors, and smells and feels like “outside.”   You can confine your puppy in a small room, such as a bathroom, with a baby gate, giving him enough room for a comfy bed, his water dish, and his mulch box.
This approach works well for young puppies and very elderly dogs with health problems, and is less likely to interfere with your efforts to train your dog to eliminate outside.

Scottee Meade        Burke, VA    'Tee Party Bostons
Canine Behavior Consultant
Member, Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Old Dominion Kennel Club

 Source : doglogic

Teach the Retrieve with Clicker

Here is my method of teaching fetch to a puppy using a clicker.

When my newest Border Collie (BC)  was about two months old I rolled a tennis ball and she said, yea, a ball, so what.

• I rolled it again and she looked at it -- c/t (click and treat)  I had already taught her that the click meant a treat so she came to me for the treat as soon as she heard the click.
• After four or five times I rolled it and didn't click when she looked at it.  She looked at it, looked at me, and walked towards it -c/t.
• Four or five of those and I didn't c/t when she walked towards it.
• So she walked up to it  I c/t.
• Four or five or those and I didn't c/t when she almost touched it ---
• so she touched it --- c/t jackpot and rolled ball again.
• She ran up to it and touched it with her nose and ran to me for the treat ---
• Four or five and no c/t until she moved it with her nose.

I think that you should have it by now --- slowly slowly step by slow step. She finally picked it up and I jackpotted (gave a bunch of treats).And went to bed.

Next night I planned on starting from scratch but as soon as I rolled the ball she ran to it and picked it up and I c/t and she came for the treat. We played with getting her to bring it closer and closer for awhile that evening and she finally did.

The following night, going against everything that I knew, I rolled a dumbbell about three feet from me. She ran to it, picked it up by the bell and brought it back.

For the past ten months we've been working on bringing it back by the bar and sitting front.  And waiting for the command. She has never, so far, refused to bring it back, altho it's often to heel or to a crooked front, and, in fact, must be retrained from chasing everybody else's dumbell in Open class.

Last week she chased and brought back somebody else's --- big one, too.  I made no fuss - it was my fault for not holding her tightly enough.  And I'm not about to punish her for retrieving.

She now retrieves over a jump -- about 80% of the time going over both ways ---no, actually, she always goes over towards the dumbell, but not always back. But we haven't been doing it long.  She hasn't been shown at all yet, so I figure we have time.

BTW, I also use a metal and leather article and glove now and then. I can't show her in Canada so I'm not bothering with the wooden articles. Hope this explains it.

I might add that I'm NOT convinced that a dog can be trained using nothing but the clicker, but it does seem to clarify things for them --- my timing is pretty good after all these years --- but I don't think that I could have said "GOOD" fast enough to have done it.  The clicker is sharper in sound.

I couldn't believe that in three night she went from "So it's a ball, so what," to "Here's a toy, please throw it for me"! She's as much of a nuisance asking for toys to be thrown as any of my naturally compulsive retrievers.

This was written last year for the Clicker FAQ list.  (and is still there even as we speak)
As of this point she has her UKC CDX and is still crazy for the dumbell.

Vivian Bregman and the Border Collies in Northern New Jersey
Member of NADOI & APDT
CIVILIZE YOUR DOG

Source : doglogic

What is choke collar and how to use it properly?

Question:  What is the proper use of the choke collar??

Answer:  They are GREAT for locking gates (use a double snap)...  :-)

That was my initial flippant answer.  I think this is a better one:

I do not use choke chains on dogs.  There are many reasons but, if I was to give just one, and this is the one I use with clients, it is because if I gain control over the dog using physical force- I have control over the dog but anyone who is unable or unwilling to use the same force does not have control.

The hypothetical 90 year old lady with the aggressive Rottie coulld never gain physical control over the dog.  But, given the right 90 year old lady, and the right Rottie she could gain mental control, *influence* is the word John Rogerson uses.

I see it all the time with private clients.  The dog will do what dad tells(!) it to do (he uses physical punishment/corrections when necessary, and it works) BUT the wife has considerably less control and the kids have none.   I believe that if dad had used only as much physical and tonal (deep voice) techniques as the youngest and weakest of the family.... the dog would treat all the people in the family the same.  The 4 year old would have as much influence as dad.

Teaching the dog that "might makes right" has consequences.

Laura Van Dyne               The Canine Consultant
6283 County Road 100         e-mail:  lvandyne@rof.net
Carbondale, Colorado 81623   (970) 963-3745
      Helping Dogs and Their People Learn Together

Source : doglogic 

MAKE YOUR DOG CIVILIZED

For most dog owners the following three things are the most important for the dog to learn:
1.  Housebreaking,
2. Coming when called and
3. Walking on a leash without pulling.
Everything else varies from owner to owner.

The following are the most important things to remember when you start out to "Civilize Your Dog":

1. NEVER tell your dog to do anything that he can evade.
2. REWARD whatever you want the dog to continue doing while NOT REWARDING (or penalizing)  whatever you want the dog to stop doing.

 These two statements will help you train the dog for the rest of his life.  Remember that rewards are not what YOU consider a reward, but rather, what the DOG considers a reward.  For example:  if your dog runs out the front door, he is being REWARDED with freedom.  When you call him and he comes and you put him back in the house he is being PENALIZED for coming to you by being put back in the house.  For training purposes a Reward can be verbal praise, petting, food, a ball or whatever motivates your dog.  YOU know your own dog -- you know if he would sell his soul for food or for a tennis ball.  Make his Reward whatever turns him on, and the time spent finding out what really turns him on will be well worth the effort.

Please notice that I said "Penalize" and not punish.  Punishment makes people think of hitting the dog -- which is rarely necessary.  The only reason to hit a dog is for anti-so-cial behavior.  "Anti-social" is not only biting.  A puppy that growls when you go near his bone is threatening you -- definitely anti-social behavior.  If not stopped it will probably become a bite.

A "Penalty" can be anything that the dog does not like.  It may be a leash jerk, not moving when he's a on leash so there's no walk, or just ignoring him.

If you think that your dog can't or won't learn, think about the things that he has already learned.  If you dog has been with you for a few weeks the chances are that he has learned when food is going to be available -- the sounds of the can opener or the opening of the closet door where his food is kept, or even, if he is fed from the table, to beg at dinner time. He has learned that a leash means a walk, that if the front door is left open a crack he can dash out and run for a few hours, and that when he is left alone he can destroy things in the house because he has never been caught in the act.

One of the most important things for you to learn is that it IS possible to teach the dog what you want him to learn.  The dog is always learning.  You have to learn how to reward the dog so that it is in his best interests to do what you want him to do.

If your dog is destructive when left alone, it is because he has not been caught in the act of doing wrong.  See the chapter on crates.

If your dog dashes out the front door, it is because he has been given the opportunity to escape and then is being rewarded by the freedom to roam the neighborhood.  If this is your problem, put a ten foot rope on the dog and let him drag it around the house.  (called a house line)  Just before you open the door step on the rope, or, for a big dog, leave a loop in the end and loop it over the inside door handle.  When the dog dashes out the front door you have a handle with which to jerk him back in.  After a few times or a few dozen times (depending on the dog) he will catch on that it is painful to dash out the door and he will stop.  Congratulations!!  You have just taught your dog a lesson that *may* save his life, and *wil*l save your hours of chasing.

As long as he is dragging this rope around the house, if you have a problem with him jumping on people you can solve that too.  All you have to do is to step on the rope where it hits the floor.  If he jumps up, the rope tightens, giving him an automatic correction.  If he doesn't jump up, nothing happens.

Every dog must have two collars:  one should be a buckle collar with his tags on it and the other is the training collar (a chain choke ). NEVER tie a dog up with his training collar and never leave the training collar on the dog when he is alone as it may catch on something.

Every dog should have two names.  One for talking  TO him and one for talking ABOUT him.  If you use his name when you are talking about him you will desensitize him to the use of his name.  Every time you say his name make it a happy occasion for him.  Use his name when you feed him.  If you want to give him a snack, instead of saying "snack" say his name.  Every time I say my dog's name she thinks that I am saying "snack" and she comes running.  Much better than yelling "snack"  or "cookie" whenever I want her to come.  Much more dignified!!

Most people have a life, aside from training the dog, so that I'm not going to tell you to train the dog for one hour a day.  Also, if you have a very young puppy one hour will be much too much for him.  Five or ten minutes at a time, two or three times a day will be far better to get the training into the dog's mind.

While your dog is eating, add food to his dish.  That is, while he is eating his dog food, add a small piece of meat or a special "goody" to his food.  This will convince the dog that whenever someone goes near his dish it is only to make it better.  The old way to get a dog to be less possessive about his food was to remove the dish while he was eating and then replace it.  This, unfortunately, sometimes led to dogs eating faster and faster because they were afraid that someone would steal their food. Add this goody to his food every day for about one month, then once or twice a week for about one a month.  After that, add a goody about once a month, to keep the dog used to the idea of someone bothering him while he is eating.  At the same time, it is very important that the dog NOT be bothered while he is eating.  What we have been talking about here is training.  If this is done the dog will not object to being bothered now and then, although the fair thing to do is NEVER to bother the dog.  The purpose of this training is that, although the owner should see to it that nobody bothers the dog while he is eating, things can happen.

One of the biggest problems is catching a dog thief in the act.  That is, a dog who steals food or other stuff off a table or a cabinet when you are not watching.  The trick is to catch him.  For this you will need several empty soda or beer cans.  When the cans are empty, wash and dry them.  When they are dry inside, put about ten pennies in the can and seal it with tape.  Line the cans up on the edge of a counter about six inches apart. Put a piece of food, or napkins, or whatever it is that he grabs off the table BEHIND the cans.  When the booby trap is all set up, leave the room, but stay within earshot.  When you hear the can hit the ground, come running in screaming.  DO NOT EVER SET THIS UP UNLESS YOU CAN COME RUNNING WHEN YOU HEAR THE CANS FALL.  Otherwise the dog will learn to spring the trap and get the bait.

The purpose of obedience training is to teach your dog to be a well-mannered companion, who is responsive to your commands and who looks to you for leadership.  The process of training should be enjoyable for you both, and enhance the bond between you as well.

How Dogs Learn

Dogs learn by associating an action with a consequence.  If the consequence is pleasurable, the dog will tend to repeat the behavior.  If the consequence is unpleasant, he will tend not to repeat the behavior.

In training you show your dog the action you wish, helping him to perform it by luring him with food or a toy, or by collar pressures.  When he performs the action, you immediately provide a pleasant consequence, by rewarding him with a special praise word and giving him a small treat. This is called "positive reinforcement," and will cause your dog, after several repetitions, to repeat the action.

If you give your dog a command word at the same time that he performs the behavior, he will learn to associate the behavior with the command.

For example, in order to teach your dog to sit, say the command SIT as you help him to do it.  This can be done by luring his head up with food or a toy held in your hand, which will cause his rear to sink into a sit, or by use of collar pressure coupled with the pressure of your hand on his rump.  The instant he sits, say his special praise word and give him a tiny treat.  After many repetitions of this he will make the association between the command word SIT and the act of sitting.  He will learn to obey the command by being positively reinforced by your praise word and a treat.

Using A Special Word to Speed Learning

You can speed up your dog's learning a lot by using a very special praise word reserved for the purpose of telling him that the action he is performing is correct and that he will be reinforced for it.  You can also use a "clicker" instead of a special word.  (Dolphin and killer whale trainers use a whistle for this purpose.  You've probably seen this at dolphin shows or on TV.  The whistle tells the dolphin that what he did was correct, and he can get a fish to eat.)  We suggest using a single word such as "great" or "yes" or "wow" that is different from general praise words like "good boy."

You dog will first need to learn that this special sound, called a "conditioned reinforcer" means something.  Teach this at home by saying the word (or clicking your clicker if you are using one) and immediately giving the dog a tiny, succulent food treat.  The order is very important.  FIRST you say the word, THEN you give the treat.  Your dog shouldn't be doing anything special, just say the word and toss the treat.  After several repetitions of this you will see your dog startle and look at you when you say the word.  That means that he has learned that it means "a goodie is coming."  Now you can use your conditioned reinforcer to clearly tell him he has performed an action correctly and will be reinforced for it, with food, a toy, praise, play, or all three.

In order for this to work, you must find something your dog likes and will work for that you can couple with your conditioned reinforcer.  For most dogs, tiny pieces of soft, tasty food work best.  We suggest tiny pieces of hot dog, cheese, soft-moist cat food, or lunch meat.  Buy a cheap belt pack to carry the food in when you are training and at class.  Once your dog has learned commands, you will not need to carry food, and can reinforce with praise, petting and play, but using food initially will help him learn much faster.

Remember that your conditioned reinforcer must be given the instant the dog obeys your command and while he is still performing the behavior, and not several seconds later.  You will need to train him daily in order for commands to become part of his long-term memory.  He needs to be quiet and controlled while you are teaching him.  He can't learn if he is wildly excited or not paying attention to you.  Therefore, begin his training in quiet, familiar places, and add distractions later as he becomes proficient in his commands.

As you start this obedience course, it will seem like there is a huge amount of things you need to learn and remember - new words, new ways of handling your dog, and new ways of relating to him.  Don't worry about trying to learn it all at once.  It will all be repeated over the weeks of the course and you'll find it becomes second nature as you gradually train your dog.  Just relax and have fun.

And remember these three things that form the cornerstone of dog training:

PATIENCE                              PRACTICE               PERSEVERANCE

It should take a while to teach the dog all this stuff. I am being vague on purpose!! Don't panic if the dog doesn't seem to be catching on in one week.  Training takes time.  If you doubt that the dog is making any progress, keep a training diary.  This will help you see just how often you are training (once a week won't work) and you will be able to see that you ARE getting somewhere.

Vivian Bregman and the Border Collies in Northern New Jersey
Member of NADOI & APDT
CIVILIZE YOUR DOG

Source : doglogic

Dog's Proper Greeting

Dogs jump up to greet people because they want to make eye contact and physical contact.  They are not interested in looking at your ankles or knees (smile).

Most dogs have been positively reinforced for jumping up, because it is hard not to pet and talk to a little puppy when they run up with their tail wagging, thrilled to see you, and put their little paws on your ankles.  Their only sin is getting bigger and putting their paws on higher body parts.

We are dealing with normal greeting behavior by dogs that like and love the people they are greeting.  It would be wrong to punish this behavior.  It would also be wrong to prevent the dog from greeting visitors.

Here is how to teach your puppy/dog to greet people (including family members).

1. Teach the puppy/dog to sit using its food as a lure and reward.
2. Make sure that you practice the sit command in any area you expect the dog to sit to greet people.
3. Have the dog confined while you invite the visitor in and get them in a comfortable chair.
4. Lead the dog, who is on a buckle collar with a leash attached, up to the visitor.  Make sure you hold the collar or lead to prevent the dog from jumping up.
5. Give the dog the 'sit' command and hand signal.  Have the visitor wait until the dog sits, before gently stroking the dog from head to shoulder while they talk to the dog in a sweet gentle voice for at least one minute. You make sure that the dog does not jump up during this procedure by holding the dog's collar. Your visitor may be leaning over the dog and a broken nose or glasses may result if you don't do a good job!
6. If the dog does not sit right away, just make sure that nothing happens until the dog sits. The first time you do this, be prepared to wait. As soon as the dog sits and gets the visitors attention as a reward, walk the dog away from the visitor, return and repeat the procedure. The dog is going to be very excited the first time they greet the visitor. The fifth time in a row you walk the dog up to the visitor, the dog is thinking "Gee, it is still Joel." It will be much easier to get the dog to sit with each additional greeting.

1. If you do this with every family member and every visitor, you will soon have a dog that will sit in front of visitors to get petted and  get their attention.
   The Above Articles are by Joel Walton, BSc

Walton Family Dog Training http://www.pages.prodigy.com/MD/wfdt/wfdt.html
AB-L owner, Pettable-L owner, APDT-L manager
DC/MD/VA 301-855-0355
(May be reproduced in its entirety for non-commercial purposes only.)

Source : doglogic

Send your Dog to Dog Obedience Training

If you want your dog to listen to you and your commands there needs to be some form of dog obedience training. This will not only teach your dog what you mean when you tell him to sit, stay, or heel – it will also establish who the boss is in the relationship of dog and dog owner. It is usually recommended that an entire family attend the training sessions as consistency in terminology and handling is the key to successful training.

A dog doesn’t need to be a certain age to attend dog obedience training but it is best to send them when they are still puppies (at least five months old) to teach them properly from the beginning. You have choices of private lessons, group lessons, or you can go it on your own with the back-up of a good reference source. Once you have started to train your dog, don’t stop. It is confusing to the dog and the sooner you finish the sooner you and your dog will know what to expect from one another.

There are approximately 16-20 phrases you will have to teach your dog to understand in dog obedience training. An important one to start with is heel. You are going to be doing a lot of walking with your dog and he or she needs to learn right from the beginning you are taking the dog for a walk not the other way around. “Leave it” and “stay” are two other important ones that should be taught in the beginning. Remember, you are the boss and your dog will follow a strong lead.

Getting Started With Dog Obedience Events

Entering your dog into one of the many local, state, national or even international obedience events is a great way to show off your dog’s talents. These events are often sponsored by breed associations, dog product companies or even marketing firms and agencies. The great thing about these events is that they are usually not limited to only registered or purebred dogs, but rather anyone can enter. Most classes or groups within the competition are either broken down by breed or breed crosses as well as size. This helps keep the competition fair and equal for all types of dogs entering the events. Children can even enter their pets and often special classes for junior handlers are offered. The cost to enter these events is usually very minimal, especially at local level events.

Basic level

Depending on the country you are competing in the events may be slightly different. Overall the basic level of obedience training includes the dog being able to walk on and off a leash with the handler, coming on command, sitting, changing directions while walking without brushing the handler or not paying attention, as well as being able to stand while the judge does a examination of the dog. The dogs will also be required to do a sit and stay exercise as well as a down and stay exercise for a set period of time.

Open

An open level class becomes more challenging to test the ability of the dog to work with the owner completely off the leash. The dogs will work together as a group for some of the exercises and alone for others. The basic requirements are to heel in a figure eight, retrieve an item and drop it on recall, retrieve an item by going over a jump and dropping it in recall, jumping over a broad jump as well as following the sit and down command.

Each dog will also have to do a lengthy three to five minute sit and down with a stay component with the handler out of the ring and out of the dog’s site.

Utility

This is the most challenging of the classes and adds to the above requirements by adding finding specific items touched by the handler in a pile of things, bringing back a specific item on command, following hand signals with no verbal component and complete both a broad and high jump component.

Each obedience class is judge by each dog having a full score when entering the competition. Each variation or mistake by the dog results in a decrease in the score. For most kennel club sanctioned events all dogs start with 200 points and then work with the deductions. The dog that makes the fewest mistakes is considered the champion for that event.

Obedience training is time consuming but highly rewarding for both the dog and the owner. Many owners train their own dogs for events and if you are interested in this fascinating sport plan to attend a few competitions to get a feel for the event and then get involved.

Basic Dog Obedience Training

One reason for doing the basic dog obedience training is to build a framework from which the owner and the dog can learn to effectively rehearse with each other. First, you can start the obedience training by establishing a general language for both of you. In return, this will train your dog to understand the exact response manner that you await instead of his maladaptive traits.

Your dog can react exactly to your commands if he learned the basic dog obedience training, in place of neurotically attempting to incline him and becoming more fearful with your dissatisfaction. Your dog will admit the members of your family as the leaders and grew more protected and peaceful in this bond of love and influence. This can be utilized to help complete some of his essential and fundamental needs, such as feeling of fulfillment, exercise, productive social interaction and the protection of knowing what's anticipated. Basic obedience training will provide your dog some helpful task to achieve and can be beneficial in directing again some of the mental potency of an animal that was ideally intended for work.

The two most popular basic obedience training patterns are reward training and leash or collar training. We can almost regard the reward training to be a tender and sympathetic training method while collar and the leash training are of very difficult training styles. They are both primitive styles nevertheless, the leash and collar has been applied more effectively and is considered as the most conventional style. It’s because of the perception that most obedience training has customarily expanded from military dog training. Some motives are revealed why these training styles would prefer the use of food such as, the nature of the dogs to be trained, the kind of mission or the task of the dog, and the background and disposition of the owner or the trainer.

How To Stop Bad Dog Behavior

Dogs belong to the Canidae family which includes wolves, foxes and cayotes. Since dogs came from ancestors with wild behaviors, it is not surprising for dogs to demonstrate a wild or aggressive behavior. Although dogs are now domesticated, there are still tendencies for dogs to exhibit their natural behavior. Humans take this behavior as bad dog behavior and expecting their dogs to behave and live with them in peace and harmony.

Here are some guidelines you can follow to stop bad dog behavior:

Early separation from the mother. Dogs are pack animals and they don’t like to be alone. When puppies are taken away from their mothers early before behavior development, this will result to behavior problems. It is advisable that puppies stayed with their mother and other puppies for about 8-10 weeks old. He will learn his behavior under the care of the mother dog. If he tries to bite other puppies, for instance, the mother dog is there to growl as a warning that his biting and bad dog behavior is not acceptable. Puppies will learn to modify their behavior if they stay long enough with their mother and by the time you take them home they are already equipped to communicate properly. It will be easier for you to house train your puppy and stop dog bad behaviors.

Reprimand when needed to stop bad dog behavior. If your dog displays bad behavior, do not ignore it. Use punishment or be strict when your dog does something that displeases you, but do not hurt your dog. Just let him know or feel that you don’t agree with his bad dog behavior.

Don’t be afraid to show appreciation or acknowledge your dogs’ good behavior. Through praises and affirmations, dogs learn that they are doing the right thing that makes you happy. Remember that dogs like to please you and if he feels you are happy with his behavior he will keep doing it until it becomes a habit.

Train your dog. Dog obedience is not innate; you must put time and effort to train your dog to stop bad dog behavior. Lack of obedience training will result to bad dog behavior. You cannot communicate properly to your dog if he is not acquainted with the proper dog trainings.

How To Choose A Good Dog Obedience School

There are so many dog obedience schools and training centres that its often difficult to know what to look for in choosing one.

It is essential to decide what you want to achieve out of attending dog obedience training and it's a good start to ask yourself the following questions:

1. Would you prefer one to one training, or group lessons?

One to one training is significantly more expensive than group lessons, so you should consider the budget that you have set for the training.

2. What is the aim of attending dog obedience training?

Is it for puppy socialisation?

Is it simply general training; walking to heel, sitting etc?

Do you intend to compete in obedience trials?

Are you interested in any specialist disciplines; i.e trick training, Heelwork to Music, agility?

3. What type of atmosphere would you like?

Would you like to join a proper “Dog club”, with all of its associated social activities and competitions? Or are you just looking for somewhere to train your dog once a week?

Once you have a good idea in your mind of what you are looking for, then you’re ready to start contacting relevant dog obedience schools and finding out whether they meet what you’re looking for.

It’s a good idea to visit the dog obedience schools, attend a lesson (without your dog), and talk to the trainers. You should trust your instincts when deciding whether you think you and your dog will fit into the training classes and enjoy working with the trainers.

A serious consideration in your decision should be the methods of training used by the dog obedience schools; you should look for trainers who believe in kind, positive methods of training. Dog trainers who encourage the use of choke chains or any kind of rough handling, should be avoided at all costs.

There are professional associations, regulating some dog obedience schools, so you may prefer to choose a dog obedience class that is regulated by one of these associations. But do remember that there are lots of good obedience schools that may not be registered with the associations.

Dog obedience training

Which dog owner won't feel proud of his disciplined dog? Reversely, who won't feel ashamed of an unruly dog? It is very important for your dog to be absolutely obedient to commands of his owner. You can't expect your dog to be obedient by birth or nature. You have to take pains to make him understand obey your commands.

Obedience training to your dog can be imparted in many ways - two of the more popular methods are typically carrot and stick methods. First method heavily depends on the stick or punishment approach. Second method deals with the reward system for the dog.

Leash and collar method of dog obedience training has survived for a long time now. It is primitive but still mostly followed. The premises of this training method are based here - leash will be the mode of communication with the dog. Dog must understand the commands, and if not obeyed to, leash should be put to action. Using leash alone is not sufficient - dog must be made aware of the good and bad behavior. Once tracked on the path to bad behavior, dog can be punished with the leash.

Reward system doesn't believe in punishing the dog. It follows psychological approach to deal with dog training. Dog is made to know the good parts of behavior and rewarded for the same. His ugly behavior is neglected in the form of psychological treatment. The trainer or owner walks away from the dog immediately after the show of bad behavior. Dog is an intelligent animal to understand the difference between the bad and good behavior.

Whatever technique is used for dog obedience training, it is important to know that the training must be consistent. Dogs get easily confused due to double standards employed. If you expect your dog never to jump on the bed, never let or invite him on the bed. Ensure that your dog never reaches the bed.

Obedience training starts on the fundamental issues like sitting, standing, walking, listening to your commands & following those, sitting in the car, etc.

The dog owner can easily impart obedience training. You may find alternates to this by getting your dog enrolled with some obedience classes or dog instructor. Evaluate all the training techniques, methods, equipment, infrastructure, experience, etc before taking the final decision on outside help. Remember, the most ideal way will be yourself to be the instructor. Your dog will love it.

Is it normal for my lab to be this mouthy? An article on biting / nipping / puppy mouthing.

Anyone who has done their research on the Labrador retriever will know that these are dogs that love to have things in their mouths. It’s what they were bred to do and most of them do it very well. However, it is important that we as humans teach our Labs what is appropriate to put their mouths on and what isn’t. This includes humans and their body parts.

Puppies of all breeds need to nip, mouth, and chew. It is part of their normal development. If you have ever had the chance to watch puppies play together, you see that they use their mouths a lot. Puppies explore their world with their mouths. It is how they learn many of their lessons on how to get along in the world. A puppy’s littermates are some of her best teachers for learning what is appropriate puppy mouthing and what is not. Since humans have domesticated the dog and as a result, separate our puppies from the litter at about eight weeks of age, much of this teaching falls on us.


There is a very good reason why most good breeders and rescue organizations would never allow a puppy to leave the litter before it is eight weeks old.

While the puppies are all weaned and physically capable of getting along on their own, they need those extra couple of weeks to learn socialization which is vitally important, especially since we plan on bringing these puppies into our homes and lives. Studies show that single puppy litters and puppies who leave the litter before they are eight weeks old often have problems dealing with other dogs and humans, especially when it comes to using their mouths appropriately



However, if you are reading this article chances are that you already have a dog and are trying to figure out how to get her to stop biting you at every turn. If you are reading this article as part of research for bringing a dog into your home, that is wonderful and there are extra points being counted for you somewhere. I wish that I had been as smart as you are before I brought my “walking mouth” home four years ago! My dog, brought home at the age of seven weeks, had a terrible, horrible puppy mouthing problem until he was almost fifteen months old. This is extreme, even in lab puppies. I think I tried everything under the sun to get this dog to stop using me as a chew toy, which gives me the ability to share my successes and failures with others.

The first thing that everyone is told to do when their puppy bites them too hard is to yipe like a puppy in pain. This is a specific sound, pulled quickly and loudly from the diaphragm. It is sharp and high pitched. (Adults should yipe for children, since children tend to sound more like wounded prey to a puppy than another puppy.) All play stops when you are forced to yipe and can resume when the puppy wishes to engage in correct play, either with you or a chew toy that you offer. At first you would only yipe for the hardest 10% of the bites. The next week you yipe for the hardest 20%, then the hardest 30% and so on and so forth until your puppy only puts her teeth on you in a very soft and playful way.

The above technique works for many dogs, especially dogs that are softer and more sensitive. Many labs do not fit in the “softer and more sensitive” category. I received all sorts of advice for how to teach my puppy, who had the sensitivity of a rock, how to stop mouthing me. I was desperate for advice since he would mouth me in play hard enough to draw blood several times a week.


Many people, from the breeder, to the trainer, to well-meaning people at the dog park, had advice for me and I tried it all. I attempted to catch my puppy’s lip between his tooth and my arm so he’d bite himself instead of me. I shoved my hand down his throat when he bit me and also tried to hold his mouth shut while scolding him. Those techniques were not effective in the least, nor were popping him under the chin, grabbing him by the scruff of the neck and shaking him, or putting him on his back in an alpha roll. In fact, it seemed that the more I tried these things, the harder the puppy would come back at me. Fighting this dog physically was not only ineffective, but it got him more excited. The suggestions I was getting became more and more violent and I simply was not prepared or willing to carry out that kind of “training”.

Finally I read a book called The Dog Whisperer by Paul Owens. In this book he describes what he calls “the magnet game”. You tether the dog to an immovable object and play with her as you normally would. The instant the teeth make contact with you, you stand up and walk out of the puppy’s reach, turning your back on her. Completely ignore her attempts to re-engage you in play (unless she’s doing something unsafe) until she settles down. Once she is settled, resume playing with her. If her teeth come out again, you walk away again. Her good behavior is like a magnet, drawing you into her space. Her bad behavior repels you away from her. Puppy mouthing is a normal part of play and for attention, this game quickly teaches them that biting too hard will not get them what they want. Within a few weeks of doing this with my dog, he stopped mouthing me. It was wonderful. I actually enjoyed playing with my dog for the first time in a year!

There are a few other things that you can do in conjunction with the other methods I’ve recommended. First of all make sure that your puppy always has something appropriate to put in her mouth. (See the article on chew toys for ideas.) Also make sure that the puppy is getting enough exercise. Puppies with extra energy tend to use their mouths more. Another thing to try would be changing the dog’s food. There are dogs who have sensitivities to various chemicals used to process dog foods (my dog is one of them), and the dog foods you can buy in the grocery store contain these chemicals. True premium foods list named meat and whole grains as the first ten or so ingredients. You should easily be able to pronounce and hopefully identify where the rest of the ingredients on the label come from.

Above all, remember patience when working with a puppy that nips, mouths, or bites. This is one of the hardest things to do – I know, I’ve been there. Responding to the dog’s bites with your own aggression, no matter how well-meaning, can serve to make your dog reluctant to play with you (in the pup’s eyes you have become dangerous and unpredictable) and not teach her how to play properly at all. It can also be much more difficult to teach your dog to hunt, play fetch, or retrieve a dumbbell in obedience if she is reluctant to have anything in her mouth. If you cannot deal with your puppy being a puppy with all of her mouthiness, put her in a crate or puppy-safe room for 10-15 minutes or so, not as a punishment, but as a way for both of you to calm down. Try to keep in mind that this is a phase that shall pass, as long as you are willing to be kind, firm, and consistent.

Stopping Barking! How do I stop my dog from demand barking or "talking back"?

In some ways dogs can act very much like children. The child that whines and pitches a fit in the candy aisle of the grocery store often gets the candy that he wants, just so he’ll stop making a racket and embarrassing his parent. The dog that barks and acts obnoxious when you stop throwing the tennis ball often gets the ball thrown again, just so he’ll stop being such a pest. In both cases, being bad gets the desired result, so it is something that will be tried again and again, usually with great success.

In dogs, this is called demand barking or nuisance barking and it is simply rude, pushy behavior. The dog may bark when he thinks it’s time to eat, if he wants you to throw his toy, if you’re not petting him, if he wants to come in the house, get out of his crate, or any other time when the dog isn’t getting his way. It is not at all acceptable behavior and taking a zero tolerance stand will make it go away.


The key to getting your dog to stop demand barking is to completely ignore him (provided the dog is in a safe situation). No matter what he does, don't give in. Unfortunately all creatures going through what's called an extinction burst. That means that your dog will try just a little harder, doing what always worked in other situations, before giving up. It's like a human with a remote control. You aim it at the TV and nothing happens. Instead of just getting up to change the channel right away, you point the remote more definitely and press the button several more times, each time more determined than before. Finally you give up and try something else to change the channel. The next time you may try the remote again, go through the same routine but remember what happened so it doesn't go on as long. Basically when you ignore your dog, he will start to bark and get more and more obnoxious, but then he'll just give up. The key is that you don't give in before the dog does. At first this will take awhile. You'll have to out-stubborn your dog, which can be a challenge if you're dealing with a lab. Just remember if you give in when he's at his worst, that's the point he'll start at the next time you work with him.

I tend to get very dramatic when I encounter a demand barker. I turn my back on the dog, cross my arms, and turn my head away and up. In dog language this signals that you are unwilling to interact with the dog. I may also say, "I don't play with RUDE dogs!!" This is more for my benefit from the dogs since it makes me feel better. As soon as the dog stops barking, even if it's just to catch a breath, I give him what he wants. You want your dog to learn that barking gets him nothing, but being quiet just might get him what his little heart desires.

If you find your dog is barking when you end play, you can work on teaching your dog "last one" or "all done". Decide when you're done playing and just before the last toss say your command and stick with it. If you told your dog that this was the last one, then do NOT throw the ball again. Completely ignore any attempt from your dog to get you to play again. You'll want to teach this after you've had repeated success at getting your dog to stop barking, since the reward for his silence in that case is to throw the ball again.

How to Stop Your Dog From Chewing The Family Furniture?

Pet Services Industry Are A Multi-Billion-Dollar Industry. It is little wonder really considering the fact that we live in such a fast paced life that we become displaced and readily embrace the affection of our family pets as solace from the world we have created. The fact that there are millions of families out there who have added a family pet to the status of a member of the family is a great thought until the prized pet becomes a menace. This needn't mean the end of the world.

While pet obedience is often overlooked until something negative occurs there are many great dog obedience programs out there that can bring your favored companion back to becoming a well behaved member of the family that brings joy and companionship to you and your loved ones. It is admittedly not easy to instill obedience in pets because as with most things it is going to require your time and commitment.

There are many reasons why dogs chew your socks, curtains and furniture. First, it is afraid. Second, it is their nature to bite into things with their mouth just the same way we have a need to touch, it is just there sensory curiosity. It is even necessary for your pet to chew on things as it is a way to keep their teeth free of plaque and buildup. Thus, a lesson on edible things must be included in your dog obedience agenda so your favored pet can differentiate what you would like it to chew and what is not acceptable for it to chew.

As an owner, you will need to start dog obedience training to save you from the constant headache and pain of seeing your prized possessions destroyed. You will not end up losing your rugs, shoes, wires and so many things in the house the sooner you realize the value in spending just some of your time and possible a small investment in dog obedience.
Familiarizing a dog to a household is the initial step in a dog obedience regimen. When you get a new dog, try to keep them in a small part of the house first, rather than letting it roam freely around the house. By confining it first to a small area you can acclimatize your dog to a part of the house and slowly increasing this area will give your dog a chance to create familiarity and become comfortable to its new home. It will be able to adapt to a new environment and eventually accept it as its new habitat without being fearful or overwhelmed.

It does not matter whether your dog is small or big to qualify it into this important step in the dog obedience syllabus. It has to be confined in one area as part of the dog obedience program. It will then learn to listen to your commands and feel comfortable with its territory.

Get it a chewing toy to accompany it where ever you have in any confined space. This chewing toy will then become its favorite toy and can help it to lower the stress level in a new place. By giving a chewing toy to the dog, you will be seen as a loving owner. Conducting dog obedience program will be a piece of cake.

Writing a list of chewable things in the house to your dog is not possible in dog obedience. What you can do is play with it for a couple of hours per day. Ropes, toys and balls are good tools in dog obedience. By using these tools, you are actually training it to memorize the things that it can play with.

The next part of the dog obedience program is where the favorite toy plays a vital role. Let us just say you come home and see the dog on your cushion, chewing the cover. Do not yell at it. Instead, hand its favorite toy over. This can distract the dog and it will release anything inside its mouth. Give clear instruction that it is not right to chew on cushion covers. Punishing the dog severely is not part of the dog obedience agenda; something you must bear in mind.

The most important thing in dog obedience training is never to lose your temper. Raising your voice or threatening the dog will not contribute to any success. It will actually drive the dog away from you. You will be seen as a cruel two-legged monster which is hardly productive for either your dog or yourself.

Terence Young - For more dog obedience and training tips and ideas visit: http://www.obediencedoggytraining.com

House training Your Dog : Deciding Which Method to Use and What Works Best

Before your new puppy arrives to your home, you should decide how you are going to housetrain her/her.

There are several ways to housetrain your puppy. It is important to decide on a method and then stick with it for the duration of your dogs life. Changing methods will confuse your dog and will ultimately cause accidents.

It's worthwhile to learn about several of the potty training methods available so you can choose the best one for you. For example if you live in an apartment you may need to learn about paper training, and if you travel a lot with your pet, litter box training may be useful for you to learn about.

This article is unable to go into all the methods available, so again, a good dog training book or other resource is worth its weight in gold! Recommended training book: http://largedogbreedz.com/housetrain.htm

How to Housetrain to Go Outside

Housetraining is teaching your dog to eliminate outside only she is never allowed to eliminate indoors. From the moment you bring your new puppy or dog home, you want to take her immediately to the spot you want to designate as the elimination area.

Use your command phrase “go outside” or “go potty”. As soon as she eliminates, immediately give her verbal praise and a reward.

Anticipate her future needs to go outside by tracking her cycle as mentioned earlier. Whenever it is time to eliminate, take her outside and once again give the command phrase go outside or go potty.

If your yard does not have a fence, or you live in an apartment, you will want to take your dog out on a leash. Attach the leash to the collar and say “Rover come” in an upbeat tone.

When she begins to walk, praise her. Lead the puppy directly to where you want her to eliminate, and say use your command phrase. Otherwise, he may be confused and think you are taking her out for a walk.

He won't always eliminate on cue. In fact, you could spend several minutes outside waiting for her to eliminate. But until she is fully housetrained, you need to be there with her. Once he finally eliminates, give her immediate praise and a reward.

If you are taking your puppy to eliminate other than your own yard, make sure that you keep her from going on your neighbor's lawn, in public recreational areas, or children's playgrounds.

Always take a plastic bag with you so you can pick up his feces and throw it away immediately into an outdoor trash can.

Female dogs squat to urinate, however, male dogs raise their hind legs and aim at vertical objects, or targets. So, be aware of where your male dog chooses to urinate.

Curbs, phone poles, and fire hydrants are acceptable locations. However, automobiles, bicycles, mailboxes, young trees, fences, plants, and shrubbery are not. If you see your dog striking the pose, gently tug on the leash and keep walking until you find an appropriate object.

Consistency is very important with housetraining. If you are not consistent with when you take her out and where you take her out, it will be hard for your dog to know what is right and what is wrong.

Obedience Training with Your Dog – Great Commands to Remember

Let's start with the “Come Command”

The “come command” is perhaps one of the other most important commands that you want your dog to know and one of the most difficult for him to learn.

When you need to use the come command it might be when he has ran out of the house or when he is in a dangerous situation.

Therefore, in order for the come command to be effective, you need to stay calm, no matter how frightened you may be for his safety. If you run after him in a panic, he will only run faster and farther away. If you stay calm, your dog will more likely move towards you.

The come command should only be given for a very positive experience and you should praise him lavishly when he responds correctly.

For example, if you say Rover, come and then you give him a bath, he will associate come with a bad experience (if he doesn't like baths.)

Or, if you say Rover, come and point out an accident that he made three hours ago and you scold him, he will associate the come command with a scolding.

Therefore, every time you use the come command there should be a positive reward and lots of praising words waiting for him. He should want to come to you no matter where he is or what he is doing.

The best way for your dog to learn the come command is through practice, practice, and more practice. Start by standing on the other side of a room from your dog. Say Rover, come. As soon as he comes all the way up to you praise him “yes Rover, good boy!” and give him a treat.

Repeat this as often as you can. He will quickly realize that you have a hand full of treats and will sit right by you so try different things. For example, go to another room and say Rover, come. If he comes, praise him and reward him.

You could also try practicing this exercise down a long hallway or from another side of the house. Have another family member help you and you can make a fun game out of it, sort of like hide and seek.

There are many ways that you can practice this command, but the key is to practice it often and always have a positive reward waiting for your dog. It doesn't have to be a treat; it could also be a toy, a walk, a belly rub, etc.

If you are in a situation, for example you are out in your front yard, your dog is loose and he does not respond to your come command, he might not fully understand it yet. In that case, you could try a couple of other options.

First, you could offer him a treat. Rover, do you want a treat? Be sure to say it enthusiastically and will hopefully come running to you in excitement.

Second, you could try to ignore your dog. For example, he may want you to chase him. But if you ignore him instead, he will wonder what it is you have found that is more interesting than him, so he may come up to you.

A loose dog can be a frightening situation, so the more you can practice this exercise, the more your dog will trust that you have a wonderful reward waiting for him!

It would be worthwhile you take some time and help your dog learn this exercise properly.

5 Effective Dog Training Essential that often overlooked!

This article provide 5 Simple Effective Essentials in Dog Training that often overlooked even by many Dog Training School or Dog Training Professional.

1. Almost all Dogs love to play! Incorporate Play into the Dog Training Session, use your dog's natural excitement is as motivation. This is a really simple yet effective technique and you should really try to include this in your obedience training routine.

If your dog doesn't enjoy it then he/she will not want to do it in the first place and you will most likely just end up wasting both your time and your dog's.

2. The Trainer Needs to Enjoy the Dog Training Session As Well!, If you are not in the mood, do not start the Dog Training Session at all.

3. Just Like Human, Long Dog Training Session will not be effective as it will demotivate them. Keep all Dog Training Session Short 5-10 minutes

4. Dogs do get confused, so keep your command short,clear and consistent,

Example: Not differentiating between "Off" and "Down." "Off" means get Off something. "Down" means lie down. So next time you tell your dog "down" to get them off the couch and they lie down and look at you, its because they were told to lie down there! They are confused, not misbehaving.

5. Dogs also need to be rewarded. Reward them if they did well.

Well, that's the 5 Effective Dog Training Essentials that often overlooked or forgotten by the Dogs Trainer which might happen to you when you are Training your Dogs.

To get more Free tips on how to Stop Your Dog's Behavior Problems I recommend that you visit: http://www.DogTrainingSolution.com

About the Author :

Leo Enoch has been an active contributors to the Internet Marketplace in numerous sector of industries.

He Operates DogTrainingSolution.com providing free tips and proven solution to Dog Training.

Discover How to Stop Dogs from Chewing

Are you getting annoyed by the destructive chewing behavior of your dog? Do you want your puppy or dog to stop chewing shoes, mats, carpets, clothing, furniture and anything he can reach? Dogs don't have to be angry to do this destructive chewing they do this because this is their natural behavior as dogs. Chewing is part of puppies development and a natural behavior of dogs. To stop dogs from chewing anything around the house, dog owners must be aware of their habits and behavior.

Dogs unnecessary chewing is the result of boredom, loneliness, curiosity, hunger and dental problems. For puppies teething can also be added in the main reasons why they chew. To stop dogs from chewing you must understand why dogs chew.

For dental problems, dogs keep chewing anything to relieve gum pains. You may observe your dog if they have dental problem when they hesitate to eat even if they are hungry. You may also put attention on how they chew their food. If they always chew on one side of the mouth, your dog might have dental problems. Bad breath and tartar accumulation on the teeth and gums are some of the symptoms of dental problem. It's a good thing for dogs to be examined by a veterinarian to evaluate dental problems and stop dogs from chewing the wrong things. For puppies with teething problem, you may give safe chew toys to encourage chewing on toys and stop dogs from chewing anything around the house.

Boredom stimulates dogs to chew and if you know how to give your dog the needed attention, destructive chewing can be avoided. Take your dog for a walk or play ball with him. Give dogs variety of toys to chew and play with to stop dogs from chewing things he is not supposed to chew. You can also give obedience training to learn more techniques to stop dogs chewing problems.

Your dog may have curiosity with the things around your house that's why he chew anything he can. You can chew proof your house and keep chewable things out of reach of your dog. If you will leave dogs alone without any human supervision, give a nice place for the dogs and toys to play and chew to stop dogs from chewing things around the house.

Give your dogs chewable alternatives like chew toys until training to stop destructive chewing becomes effective. When you are correcting your dogs not to chew anything around the house, encourage dogs to chew his toys and give praise for doing the right thing. Appropriate correction of the bad habits and giving praise can stop dogs from chewing the wrong things.

You can stop dogs from chewing the wrong things if you know the right techniques and strategies to manage your dogs' problems. Proper training for your dog is something that dog owners must learn. While chewing is a natural behavior of dogs it can be well managed to stop dogs from chewing anything around the house.

Does your dog needs urgent dog house training? Learn the dog house training techniques you must know with the fastest results, whether you keep your dog indoors or outdoors visit Sit Stay Fetch: Dog Obedience Training to Stop Your Dogs Behavior Problems

For more information on how to stop your dogs behavior problem visit Dog's Obedience Training

About the Author :

Gerry Restrivera writes informative articles on various subjects including Dog's Behavior Problems.

Dog House Training - tips you must know

Providing effective training for your dog from an early age is very important for a number of reasons. The most effective training method for both you and your dog will depend upon a number of factors, such as which method of training you feel most comfortable with and which method of training your dog is most responsive to.

Basic dog training is available for most all breeds. Performing the correct dog training is something that will better your relationship with your dog. Dog training is definitely not rocket science and is easier than you would expect particularly if you can get help from a good dog training book or guide. Dog training is a must for ALL dogs large or small.

The final major mistake we all make is thinking that the dog training is over. The main advantage of traditional dog training is the high reliability of the trained behaviors. Other advantages are that positive dog training is easy to understand and fun to carry out. The thing needed in training your dog is what most experts define as "positive reinforcement". This is a method of rewarding the dog or puppy when they do something "right" and leads to them wanting to do the right thing all the time.Dog and Puppy House Training Stops Them Piddling And Pooping in the Wrong Places.

These next few tips will help make your life with your dog that much more enjoyable.

1 It is very important to help the dog identify itself with a name. In the critical stage of socialization,the dog would be busy trying to accustom itself to its new home and people and would also seek its place in the house. Giving it a name and making him know it that helps it become a part of the family. Call him with the chosen name as many times as possible, and reward him with something whenever he responds. A bright smile, a hug or just an enthusiastic "yes!" would do. Just make sure your dog feels recognized when it responds to its name.

2 It responds only to name but nothing else?This is one of the mistakes owners commonly do. Though name is an important part of the dog's life, it is equally important to include it in other activities too. It is good that your dog is responding. Take advantage of dog training suggestion responsiveness to teach it to obey basic rules like sit, stand, etc. This can be done by playing innovative games with it. For example, sit and treat yourself a biscuit in front of it and show it do like wise. It may take time but timely rewards would ensure its obedience.

3 Responsiveness of the dog also depends on how effective our communication is with your dog. A dog won't understand human language and it would be a waste of energy if we try to teach it verbal "sit" and "stand". Instead make use of your eye contact whenever you deal with it. Sit with it and give instructions through eye contact. This has proved to be very successful in most cases.

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